Ever dreamt of island paradise off-the-grid where you can laze around in a hammock all day? San Blas Islands in Panama might be just the place!
I had read some very mixed reviews about these islands, and an email from the travel agency we booked with warning us of all the horrible things that we might encounter, from blood-sucking sand flies to dirty sheets to lack of electricity, and so on…
But I also heard from other travellers how beautiful and pristine these islands were, so I took the risk and booked an overnight tour to Guasirdup island, and I’m so glad I did!
About San Blas (Kuna Yala) Islands
The archipelago consists of 365 islands, 51 inhabited ones and the rest used for tourism. However, there is no mass tourism- no hotels, no resorts and the islands are still very much off-the-beaten-track. The islands are owned by an autonomous indigenous community, Kuna Yala, with its own language, culture, customs and laws. In fact, to enter the area, passports are required and tourists need to pay a $20 island tax. Only Kuna Yala people can work on these islands and all the accommodation is very simple, run by the local community.
Getting there
I usually avoid organised tours whenever possible, but there really aren’t many other options when it comes to visiting these remote islands.
So we booked one of the tours that included a transfer from Panama city to the port (about 2.5-3hrs on the brand new sealed road (don’t worry about the horror stories of a bumpy unsealed road, that’s all a story of the past!), a boat ride to the islands, an island hopping tour, 1 night accommodation and 4 meals (lunch, dinner, breakfast and lunch). The total came to around $250 per person, which initially seemed expensive to me, but now I realise the value and believe it's completely justified! The islands are very remote, requiring all supplies to be transported from the mainland. I can't even imagine the effort involved in washing sheets without a washing machine! (Unless they send them back to the mainland, but I'm not sure if they do!)
What to expect
Everything exceeded expectations (which were set very low by the terrible reviews), but I can only comment on our island, Guasirdup, which features lovely accommodations in overwater cabins.
Simple accommodation with shared bathroom facilities (there was fresh water, though, despite the reviews saying the showers have salt water).
Delicious fresh meals: fish, seafood and sometimes chicken options with rice, patacones (plantain chips) or chips- all very delicious!
No wifi (but our phone reception seemed to work on the island).
Limited electricity, but our cabin had lights, a fan and a power outlet where we could charge our phones (again, this might not be true for other islands).
Guasirdup island has only 3 over-water cabins, so it’s very private!
There are no shops, so bring your own snacks and drinks, although they did provide soft drinks and beer (at extra cost) with meals. Some of the bigger islands we visited during the island hopping had more food & drink options, including cocktails. Make sure you bring cash.
Bring your own towels and plenty of sunscreen!
Our island-hopping tour included a visit to Gagandup (Grassland Island) for lunch, Isla Perro Chico-Barco Hundido for a swim and Piscinas Naturales (Natural Swimming Pool), an absolutely stunning swimming spot in the sea.
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