Bolivia is a country I have been wanting to visit for a long time and although nestled among seemingly similar neighbouring countries of Peru, Chile, Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil, it has a very unique feel to it unlike anywhere else I have been. With most of the country sitting at high altitude (La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3,640 m above sea level), its unique landscape, architecture and traditional outfits together with lovely people make for a wonderful place to visit. Despite being one of the poorer countries of Latin America, its cultural richness and hospitality offer a fantastic travel experience. In this blog, I would like to share some of the unique cultural aspects of Bolivia we came across during our first visit (yes, we will definitely be back for more!:)
La Paz & El Alto
With a population of a little over a million each, La Paz and the neighbouring El Alto make the second and third largest cities in Bolivia. There is a fantastic network of cable cars (Mi Teleferico) that serves as the city's public transport system and connects El Alto's neighbourhoods with the centre of La Paz. Although El Alto is overall cheaper, you will find an increasing number of luxury mansions, referred to as cholets.
El Alto's Shamans
On our first day in La Paz, we took the red cable car up to El Alto's 16 de Julio station to look for the local yatiris, traditional Aymara healers and fortune tellers. The closest English translation would be a 'shaman.' We didn't really know how to choose one, with so many huts one next to the other offering various services, from fortune telling, to healing to help with all kinds of issues (medical, business, travel, marriage, etc.) so I first walked up to one of the huts for a coca leaves reading (kind of like a tarot reading, but using coca leaves). I was charged 20 bolivianos (only to later realise that the standard fee is 10) and was told that everything will be fine, but there is some 'envy' from outsiders, so I need a limpia (a spiritual cleansing) to rid me of bad spirits. The sceptic in me was thinking that she is, of course, trying to upsell her services.
In the meantime, Alfredo went to another yatiri for his coca leaves reading and was also told that he needs a limpia. Still sceptical but curious, we then saw that some of the yatiris had a line of people waiting outside. Intrigued, I thought that those must be the good ones (!) and hesitantly started queuing up. While sitting in the queue, I had one of those moments that felt like a very unique and authentic travel experience. I started talking to the lady next to me (feeling very grateful to be able to speak Spanish and thus have access to these kinds of experiences!). I asked her if she'd been there before, and she said that she comes whenever she needs some advice and that Maestra Gladys is very good (and therefore there is a line of people waiting for her services).
Okay, so when it was our turn, we started with the coca leaves reading again, and this time it somehow seemed a bit more believable (see, reputation matters!). She said that there is good fortune in store for us, but there is some 'envy' (again), so a 'limpia' would be advisable. Alright then, we decided to just go with it (for 150 bolivianos).
Maestra Gladys skilfully wrapped coca leaves in newspaper, adding a sprinkle of alcohol before neatly folding it into a parcel. She then placed these curious bundles on our bellies. Then, with a swift motion, she snapped a string into countless pieces above our heads... All this while, she managed to multitask effortlessly, answering phone calls giving advice to people all over Latin America. Apparently, each phone call is worth 10 bolivianos and her clients pay her when they come visit her every. now and then. Some of her reassuring advice over the phone included words like, "Don't worry, everything will work out. Just go there in person and, uh, sprinkle some urine on them."
I didn't feel particularly 'cleansed' or anything, but then again, I am a little bit superstitious, so I was glad we did it! If anything, it was such a unique experience that gave us a sneak peak into the complex culture of local beliefs. After all, everyone needs some advice every now and then!
Cholets
Cholet= cholo (a term used to refer to the native Aymara people) + chalet.
This unique Andean architectural style, started by a Bolivian architect, Freddy Mamani, has become popular among the newly rich in Bolivia as in the Aymara culture, it is a must to show your wealth (thus the over-the-top colours and lavish decorations). For a building to qualify to be considered a cholet, it needs to meet a few criteria:
- have a residential house on top
- an event party space available for rent
- apartments for the family
- a business on the ground floor
We joined a tour of cholets in El Alto, but you can see many just by walking around the neighbourhood. Truly unique architecture!
Cholitas Wrestling
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